Just got off the plane and through immigration. Steve Bike was already sitting in oversize luggage when I got through. The luggage looks fine but I think it will have wait until tomorrow to unpack (I'm pretty tired, it was a late night in Rome finishing at 4am)
It was a full plane but an easy flight. I reviewed and cleaned up some biking photos, and when I get a chance I'll post them. Marilyn should be be here soon and I'm really looking foreard to coming home!
Sunday, October 26, 2008
Back in Boston
Saturday, October 25, 2008
Steve's Bike's new friend
Steve’s bike is packed, Steve’s bags are packed, and I’m ready to head home tomorrow. Tonight there’s a festa, and it should be a fun last night at Rome
Manuel bought this bike today in Campo dei Fiori, but he couldn’t take it home because he had his scooter. So, I had a last ride, up the Vittorio Emmanuale II, through the Piazza della Reppublica, by Santa Maria Maggiore, onto Fori Imperiali and by the Colleseo, and then back to the apartment. Rain was threatening, and I wasn’t really dressed for it as you can see, but I beat the rain drops just barely.
So Steve’s bike has made a new friend in Rome, along with LB’s Orbea and the tandem bikes in Chianti.
Friday, October 24, 2008
Looking at pics
I had a few minutes this morning to download the pics from the Canon SD500. I took more shots with this camera which has a better lens, but couldn't live blog them. Later I'll post a few of the best ones, but for now, in the category of a picture being worth a thousand words, here's one way to sum up the ride (photo taken by Chris Longbottom of LB Freedom tours at about 20mph heading towards San Querico d'Orcia)
Thursday, October 23, 2008
The Giro is finished!
Roma- Firenze. About 250 miles / 400km. 4 1/2 days, maybe about 23 hours pushing the pedals. Biggest climbs, most fun descents, and most beautiful roads I have ridden in my life. What a marvelous experience and thank you, thank you, thank you Marilyn for encouraging me to do this.
I'm sitting on the regional train sharing a 6 seat compatment with a cyclist of a much different order. He's been around the world once and is halfway around it again. I'll take a pic of his modified custom bike, he carries about 90 kilos. We're having fun talking about biking and Italy. He left Tulsa Oaklahoma 6 years ago and is working his way around the world playing music. Right now he has his accordion out and the miles are flying by.
Its 4 hours to Rome on the slower regional train. The Eurostar does it in 1.5 hours but you can't take a bike. We're stopping in every little town, and just reached Chuisi, my alternate destination for yesterday. The sun is out down here, and the warmer air feels refreshing from an open window further up in the car. I'm pleased its taken awhile, if it had been 20 minutes to Chuisi say on the Eurostar it would have made my big ride seem a little shorter. On this train, each hour of travel equals about 1 days ride.
What can I say about Florence this morning. Its beautiful as always. The crowds were maddening, and I had to walk my bike at points. I found a bar near the station for a spremuta and piece of pizza rossa. I stayed in front of the Duomo for 15 min, just admiring the stupendous facade.
Then it was on to the station for the 13:09 to Rome, we get in around 4:45. I rode Steve's bike right into the building and over the marble floors, a unique ending to the trip. Fare to Rome? 15 eu plus 3,50 for the bike. You gotta love it.
Strada in Chianti ...
... Is a very nice prosperous little town, with friendly well dressed people and one of the loveliest bars I've stopped at. I'll come back here sometime.
Well, I don't want to jinx it, but the rain has held off other than for about 5 min and then some drizzle. The roads have dried off, and its 13km to Firenze. I should start seeing the city when I leave Strada..
Cool, rainy morning
I was up early today, and am now ready to head out. Its much cooler outside, I wouldn't say cold but definately quite cool. There's an on and off light rain, and the streets are wet. Maybe if I waited a couple hours it would clear, or maybe it would get worse. So, I'm heading out and the last day has brought a final adventure.
I've repacked the waterproof Ortliebs panniers so everything is inside, I had been leaving frequently accessed items in outside packets. I've got out my Showers Pass bright yellow rain/wind gear, my bikegore gloves, and my tights. I'm skipping the arm warmers, I think they'll make me too hot. I'll try for a pic before I go.
The Route this morning is Ferrone, Strada in Chianti, then Grassina and the Via Benedetto Fortini in Firenze down to the river. And of course I have to cross on the Ponte Vecchio, don't you think?
Wednesday, October 22, 2008
It's cold in Chianti
For the first time in the evenings I was glad I carried a wool sweater. And I needed my arm warmers on that last descent.
Well, the cold I've been fighting off all week has hit, I'm all stuffed up and feeling low. I went to the farmacia and got some decongestant, and I'm going to bed early tonight.
Tomorrow is an easy ride to Florence, one medium size climb and descent, but otherwise flat or trending down. 30 km or a tad less than 20 miles. The roads have spectacular views. So, depending on the weather, this will either be a victory lap if it's clear or a final adventure if it rains.
Then it's a pedal through the streets, by the Duomo, and off on a train to Rome. If things go very smoothly I could be in Rome for the afternoon. That would be great, I could maybe lay low in the apartment in the afternoon a bit.
I'm a bit sad to have the ride come to the end, it's been a fabulous adventure and I'd love to keep going. Milan? France? Sweden? Europe is a big place. Another time, with Marilyn, if we're lucky and we stay fit.
Albergo del Chianti
I'm safe and sound in the inexpensive and unimaginitively named hotel in the central piazza of Greve in Chianti. But the room is clean, the shower hot, and I saw a pizzeria outside and I've been wanting a good pizza for a couple days.
I'm here early enough I hope to take some time to walk around and see the town before dinner.
Also, my 3 credit ran out, must have been that video clip earlier, and I'd like to recharge it if I can find a bar / tabachi.
Almost done Day 4
I'm sitting on a stone wall above a nice bend in the road above Lucarelli. I've got one more climb and one decent to Greve in Chianti, where I plan to spend the night.
Francesco in the bar in Lucarelli was a sponsored rider but he had two wrecks in the last two years and he's giving up the sport. We had a great chat about riding though, and he told me its 2 hours to florence, 1.5 in a pace line. Since I'm weighed down, its certainly too much for me to reach tonight. So one more night on the trip. I will finish the last hill and steep descent tonight though, that way even if its raining tomorrow it should be an easy ride to Florence in the morning.
Speaking of climbs, its was 45 min of straight up after lunch. I found a rhythm and kept at it, but it was a relief when it ended. Then 20 min of bliss giving up that altitude (and some extra), with gradients not intimidating so I barely needed to touch the breaks.
The scenery has changed, more wooded, its cooler, in fact it seems much more like New England. Ok, on to greve.
Great morning ride
Simply beautiful from asciano to Siena. I'm now in the heart of Chianti, passing vineyards, olive orchards, and old castles. I just had a nice lunch and quartino di rosso in Gaiole in Chianti. There was a big group of tandem riders with Pennywise tours here, and since the tables were full Helen and her husband from San Diego invited me to join them. It was fun hearing about their two week organized tour, but I think it would be too much structure for me.
Fortified with pici piccante and a gelato, I'm ready for two climbs and its now on torwards Greve in Chianti. The sun is hot, the sky is clear blue, and life is grand.
Heading to Firenze
The day looked great, who knows when I'll be this way again, I'm riding Roma Firenze.
I've been rewarded with a spectacular ride so far this morning, green fields, brown fields, always a view. Lots of climbs followed bt descents but the legs are used to it. I just tried a test video, have no idea if blogger will show it, but if so you'll get a sense of the ride.
Ok, I'd better stop snapping pics and witing, and put some km behind me.
Day 4 morning
Good morning readers. Its a bright and beautiful day in Tuscany, and I've been up having breakfast and looking around the lovely grounds here.
I've also been considering my options for today. What threw me off last night and had me riding in the dark was that this hotel was listed in Asciano but actually is about 12km further east, almost to Sinalunga. Technically I could reach Florence, but with the extra 12km it looks to be 100 - 120 km with more than a few pretty good climbs. My riding guide book makes it two full days from Asciano to Firenze, if I were here to train I would try to knock it off today.
But, I'm on vacation. So, instead I could strike for the climb to Cortona this morning. Three different Italian friends have recommended the town, and the chef last night said it's anche piu carina than Pienze. Then its a descent to Montepulciano, then Chianciano Terme, and finally Chuisi. Trains leave direct for Rome every hour from Chuisi, so I could plan to get back tonight and not have to ride if it rains tomorrow.
Or I could start for Firenze, make it most of the way, and stop towards the evening.
I think I'll pack up, head to the road and see which way the wheels turn.
Tuesday, October 21, 2008
Last post today from a tired Steve
Steve's Bike, I don't know, it could probably keep going. Although the wheels did get warm on some of the decents.
I ate so much food. They started things out by offering me a prosecco and a piece of grilled bread salted and peppered and dripping with their own olive oil. For a pasta it was pici in sugo di nana. Pici are homemade pasta, they look like fettuccine but with a square cross section. Nana is the local word for duck. Heck who knows maybe its even Italian for duck but I don't believe so.
Then a filet cooked perfectly with porcini and spinich. The staff knew about my big ride, so I think they gave me and extra big piece which still would have been considered small back home but was perfect for me. Then I had a golden apple tart with a chantilly cream sauce. Yum.
I ordered a liter of water, drank it, and had them bring a second. I also had a nice half bottle of a vino nobile from montepulciano but couldn't finish it. Today was a bit extreme with close to 10 hours on the road and alchohol just didn't appeal.
Tomorrow's the last nice day before rain, and I think I've selected my plan. I'll finalize the decision in the morning (Mimmo and Ale it involves Cortona), but I'm leaning in the direction of an easier day of around 50 miles and taking a train from Chuisi to Rome tomorrow evening.
Buona notte
Big Day 3
Well I forgot to look before we locked the bike up, but I think it was high 60s maybe 70 miles today (certainly over 100km), probably about 6 hours ride time.
I had a magical experience riding near dusk on high ridge roads with open views all around me and a sunset in the west. It turned a tad anxious but still fun as I had to ride into the night, but the head and tail lamps worked, the roads were flawless and empty, and the cool evening air delicious as the hill town lights twinkled in the distance.
I didn't get much of a look at the Borgo, arriving after dark. But I was thrilled to find a bathtub in the room! So yes I'm writing this note while having a good hot soak for my tired legs. In fact I'm gonna put some more hot water in now. Hopefully it will help my left hip which towards the end of the day starting hurting a bit from my fall this morning.
I am so hungry, and I tell you few things can match the anticipation of knowing you have a Michelin rated meal coming after a day like this.
Finally a gelato
I'm in San Querico d'Orcia, a very pretty little town between Pienza and Montalcino and more prosperous than some of the places in northern Lazio. The bells are ringing the hour, and I'm sitting at a bar on the main street. My friend Peter just wrote that he and Ellen love this area. We spent time here before when we lived here, and it's a favorite of ours as well.
The ride up ss2 was fast and fun, but at a certain point another autostrada joined it, and there was more traffic. I went through a 1km tunnel (and was glad I had blinking front and rear lights to call attention for the motorists).
It clouded up awhile ago and I felt a few raindrops, but its cleared again.
A fun thing happened a while back, the owner of LB Freedom Tours overtook me and we rode side by side and chatted for 10 min. He leads cycling tours over here and was impressed that I'm doing this on my own. My legs felt strong and we were spinning at 20 - 25 together and one climb winded me but I was pleased to see he was even breathing a bit, and that on his carbon bike with no bags. He's arranging some tours to follow the Giro Italia next year and encouraged me to come. He also said high end bikes are cheaper here, and that I could get a carbon colnago with Campy record components for 2000 Euro. What do you think Marilyn? :) Don't worry, not this trip.
Anyway, LB left me to go play in the hills. I've decided to get off the ss2 and have bookked myself in Asciano at the Borgo Casabianca tonight. This may compromise my ability to reach Firenze tomorrow, but the weather is worsening and I want the option for Chuisi or Arezzo instead (direct train routes to Rome)
Ok off to the Borgo
SS 2
Wow, the SS 2 is empty, smooth, and fast. Firenze here we come. 80km = 50 miles to Siena, let's rock.
Day 3 morning
A bit of a sketchy start this morning. I slipped on the gravel at the bottom of the dirt road from the Locanda and hit the dirt. I was fine other than a small scrape on the leg, the bike was fine, but the beautiful prince william pear I saved from breakfast squashed in my saddlebag, yuck.
Then, I chose the high road out of Orvietto because of the great view, only to be fogged in. It was a tough climb to Castel Viscardo too, 52 min to cover 6 miles.
But I had a cappucino and a cornetto con marmaldo di lamponi, the sun has finally come out, and all is well.
I've stopped in a farm field to study my notes and cinsider some options. I'm heading to Aquapendente right now, where I'll take some pizza and make up my mind from there. If I want to reach Florence tomorrow it means taking the No 2 road a fair bit. This is a major route with a lot of traffic. If I give up on florence it looks like I could take a spectacular 11.5 km climb to Abbadia San Salavtore and mess around up in the heights, then reach Chuisi tomorrow for a train.
Foggy morning for day 3
I just finished a beautiful breakfast with fresh ricotta and honey, a type of fruit called "il cacco", a delicious custard and chocolate torte, and cherry tomatos with oil from the locanda and frsh bread. I had my map spread out next to me and would take a few bites, then study the map for a bit considering my options for the day, then take a few more bites. Yes it was heaven.
I'm going to head up towards Montepulciano, Pienza and Montelcino today. The forecast is nice today, increasing cloudiness tomorrow, and rain on Thursday, so I only have two days to ride. So, from my destination tonight, I can either head south to the spa at Saturnia if Manuel comes as he was planning and gives me a lift back to Rome, or I can try a long ride to reach Florence and take a train back to Rome.
The bike is performing well. I've had to adjust the brakes tighter (these descents hurt my forearms I need to squeeze the brakes so much), and I adjusted the pannier position forward for better balance. I'm pleased with the 25mm tires, and I'm very happy that I dropped a new cassette on the back with a 34 tooth large cog. My bottom gear is at 23 inches. Next time I'll also change out the small ring, I could use even lower gearing, one guide book suggested trying to get as low as 18 and I now agree. The engine is strong and getting stronger, legs feel great after an easier spin yesterday.
OK, on to packing my saddle bags and its off.
Monday, October 20, 2008
Locanda Palazzone
I've stoped at a truly marvelous place tonight, a restored 13th century Cardinals palace that also has vineyards.
Dinner is soon, so you'll have to google the name, its right outside of Orvietto. I'm writing this from the balcony where the evening air is fresh and cool. Its so quiet and tranquil here, definately a place to return to.
Lodovico and Patrizia are quite friendly, and Lodovico wants to share some of his Orvietto Classico with me, so I'm gonna run.
No gelato on Monday
Not in Bagnoreggio anyway, making this not my favorite spot. They have two gellaterie, both are closed on Monday. Hmph. I settled for a chocolate bar instead.
Its 25 km to Orvieto, but with some big climbs. I making that my destination today. I plan to go to the central piazza and take a table for an afternnon birra and snack. The church facade should be finsihed, it was being restored when we visited in 2002, and I plan to soak it up.
I'll linger there and consider lodging options, either in town or there's an agritourismo 11km out that sounds nice.
Today is a 10
Blue sunny skies, warm bordering on hot. The guide book was spot on with the route reccomendations, I'm on quiet roads with good aspalt, great scenery, and not much traffic.
I liked Viterbo this morning, it would be a good place to spend a night. Its larger size means lots of options for lodging and dining.
Vitorchiano is quaint, but there's not much here and I preferred Sutri. However I do have to say on this trip that it seems that each caffe is better than the last, and the cappucino scuro in vetro that I just had was exceptional. I also had a nice pizza rossa and some bluberry juice. Simply delicious. I'm now refreshed and it's on to Bagnoregio.
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